If you can believe it, properly presenting a fish for a photograph involves technique! Whether you’re fishing through the ice, or in the blue-bird dog-days of summer there are techniques you can use to ensure you get that perfect shot, and you are making sure the fish is healthy to swim away. Here are some things to consider.
Temperature – depending on the species of fish and the temperature of the water, you may have to make a decision on how you’re going to take that photo. Warm water often means it will take fish longer to recover from the fight in which you just engaged. Judgment is key here as prolonged exposure to air, is a definite detriment to the fish. Picture this, you just run 100 meters as fast as you can and upon finishing your race, you’re forced to put your head in a bucket of water until we let you out.. Quite depleting actually, well that is what happens with fish when you take them out of the water for that photograph immediately after a fight. They suffocate. There is nothing wrong with letting them get their breath back in the net, in the water, while you prepare to take your photo.
Be ready! Have your camera assembled, on standby and ready to go when that big fish bites. Having your camera ready to go when you need to take that shot is way easier on the fish.
Hold your breath. When you’re ready to hoist that fish out of the net take a breath yourself. When you need to take a breath, you can bet the fish needs one too. If you have to take a breath and haven’t snapped that pic yet, simply return the fish to the net and give it a bit of time to breathe. When ready, take a deep breath and hoist that fish again and get your photo.
Keep em wet. There is a #hashtag on social media making its way around for a little while calling for anglers to #keepemwet which literally means, you don’t take the fish out of the water for that photograph. Not getting into the politics of it all, I can see arguments on both sides of the benefits of keeping them wet and holding a fish for a photo, that said, some spectacular photographs of fish can happen if you do keep them wet. It may involve a specialized camera on your end but the results can be spectacular and well worth the investment.]]>I have had varied success fishing walleye on fly and entered this episode with skepticism – a lot of skepticism. Why? Simply because my previous experience fishing walleye on fly was work! A lot of work! And slow – watching paint dry kind of slow. A lot of time invested for meager success. On the phone with our host, Krista, she told me about “the honey hole.” What she doesn’t know is as soon as she mentioned said honey hole, I rolled my eyes and said to myself.. “not again” You see, every lodge out there has their “honey hole” and well, sometimes, those are the most known spots to fish, and because of that, the honey hole doesn’t produce squat. I obliged her and said I’d give it a try.
So we pulled into Miminiska Lodge landing on the 2400-foot grass landing strip and got settled into our cabin. We geared up, and hit the lake. The first time I fish on any body of water, I rely on what the locals tell you. After looking at a map of the area, we isolated a couple of promising looking spots and asked local guide Joe Boyce what he thought… “go to the honey hole” he said. Ugh…
So we obliged and travelled the 2.3 minutes to the location of the honey hole. I’m here to tell you at first glance, it wasn’t very impressive. 2 feet deep and a bit of moving water. However, upon closer inspection, that moving water had created a channel that was significantly deeper than its surrounding flats. I tied on a leech pattern fly and cast my sinking line upstream right across the cut, counted to 10 and started my retrieve.
BAM! 21-inch walleye – FIRST CAST!!! Third cast, 19-inch walleye, 7th cast 22-inch walleye! What was this sorcery?!?! My camera man wasn’t even ready!!! Long story short, we fished the honey hole and averaged a fish every 3 minutes for 3 hours, releasing each and every one. This truly was a “honey hole”. I stood humbled and incredibly amazed at what had just happened.
I came to learn very quickly that Miminiska lake, the entire lake is teeming with quality walleye, so much so, that you can take your time and experiment with different flies, techniques and presentations. The populations are so healthy, playing around with different ways of fishing isn’t lost on lack of fish in an area. IF they don’t bite, they aren’t interested. It’s not a matter of lack of fish in the area. And there are giants there as well with the biggest walleye caught at Wilderness North this year taping out at an astonishing 33 inches, which if had been measured and submitted would have been a new IGFA World Record for length!!! (the current record stands at 31.1 inches).
So why is the population of walleye so healthy at Mim? Well there are a number of reasons, however the prominent one in my opinion is Wilderness North’s conservation initiatives. Big fish make Big fish. Walleye over 18 inches are returned to the water while it’s encouraged for anglers to take 2 fish under 18 for shore lunch every day! This allows the big (possibly genetically superior) to make other strong-lined fish. That coupled with the sheer size of the lake and the lack of angling pressure ensure walleye success – yes, even on fly! You can check out the episode which includes walleye, pike and big brook trout Mim is famous for here:
]]>Fish are interesting creatures. They are cold blooded and are very sensitive to environmental conditions. Food, oxygen levels and of course, temperature all plays key factors in their behavior, how much they feed, where they move and their overall metabolism.
When it’s warm, too warm, baitfish will move to areas that are more suited to maximize their metabolism and where they are most comfortable. Predatory fish such as pike, walleye and brook trout with either follow the bait or beat them to the punch and move into areas that are suited to their comfortability. Everything is directly related to temperature when it comes to food and because fish can’t regulate their body temperatures, they must find their optimum sustainability temperature. If they can’t find that temperature, their metabolism either speeds up or slows down. When fish metabolism speeds up, (water is too warm) the fish’s breathing rate also increases requiring more oxygen. Problem is, as the water’s temperature goes up, the amount of oxygen in the water drops. When fish’s metabolism goes down, they become more lethargic, which affects feeding and reproduction.
Northern Pike: range 56 F– 74 F with an optimum temperature of 63 F |
Walleye: 50 F – 76 F with an optimum temperature of 67 F |
Brook Trout: 44-70 with an optimum temperature of 58 F |
We were able to locate cooler August water for northern pike on the main lake, and were able to get our job done on that front. What happened on the Freestone River the next day was nothing short of remarkable. Pool 1 is traditionally excellent fly-fishing for brook trout. We arrived, and after I dipped my hand in the water, I was worried. It was like bathwater. We swung flies through the pool and landed some nice walleye, not our species of choice. Tried for a half hour more and made the decision to make a move to find cooler water. I drifted the Freestone with my hand in the water for about another half hour when I noticed a dramatic temperature change leading into a run of faster water ending with a deep medium flow pool. We started fishing dry flies and had immediate success. The water temperatures had dropped due to subsurface springs feeding the river. The fishing was so good, we ended up staying at that run and pool for the remainder of the morning and were able to complete the bones of what video needed to be shot, landing and releasing a dozen brook trout all in the 2-5 lb range. It was the decrease in temperature that pushed all the fish from the upper river into that pool. They must have been thick as thieves there and I wish I had my snorkel gear to witness it. We spent the rest of the float with our fingers in the water. Feeling for temperature changes, and we did come across a number of springs downstream.
Temperature is the key factor in locating fish to catch and it’s important to respect the upper limits of fish’s tolerance in warm water. Recovery from a fight, even from the very best of anglers can prove lethal if water temperatures don’t allow for recovery. It’s best to put in the work to find the optimum temperature range when angling for all species of fish in any body of water when practicing catch and release.
]]>Primarily, they protect your eyes from a number of things. Certain light spectrums have the ability to do irreversible damage to your eyes. And you don’t only get light coming down on you from above, you get reflected light off items such as the surface of the water, the aluminum boat you’re fishing from, really anything that reflects light. It has been seen, sunglasses also protect your eyes from flying items like lures, weights and hooks. They are your first line of defense when it comes to that missed hook set or the lure that pulled from a fish’s mouth, or a careless lack of judgment in casting from your fishing buddy. I’d rather have a pair of sunglasses smashed or scratched that have to deal with a hook in my eye.
Sunglasses allow you to enjoy the outdoors more. More time on the water results in more fish in the boat. There are a very few brands out there that focus on lens technology that actually protects and prevents long-term damage from the light spectrum. (Read up on True Blue lens technology!) Soothing properties and colors help prevent eye fatigue and the inevitable headaches that come along with extended outdoor light exposure.
If you choose to buy a pair of sunglasses for fishing, make sure you get polarized lenses. The polarization of the lenses will cut the reflective glare on the water’s surface and actually allow you to see into the water. It works on all bodies of water as well be it rivers, the ocean and lakes. (Provided the water has some clarity to it) You can see submerged structure like rocks and stumps, weed lines and you can actually see fish as well. They take a bit of getting used to, but will up your game big time when it comes to removing glare. I have seen many fish follow my presentation with polarized lenses and that extra information has allowed me to manipulate the bait to entice a strike. I think of the fish I’ve missed over my career not using polarized lenses.
If you get the right pair of polarized sunglasses for you, chances are you’ll forget they’re even on. They should be comfortable, fit your face and not allow any “light creep” through the frame. And don’t be afraid to experiment with different lens tints or colors based on the natural color of your lake or river. Some shades of lens will actually perform better for you depending on the color of your water.
]]>So inevitably, you are going to come across a trophy walleye over 30 inches. These fish get this big because of a couple of factors, they are genetically superior, they eat big meals, and most importantly they are smart. It’s these big fish that we need to consciously protect to release safely back from whence they came. Here are a couple of considerations in handling big walleye.
It’s always recommended to have the proper equipment on hand every time you are out on the water. If you catch that giant and are under gunned with respect to the gear you should have on the boat, you risk damage to you and the fish. Walleye have armour all over their bodies and can inflict a serious wound if not respected. Bring a net! It minimizes human contact with the fish and many times the fish can be unhooked without even being touched. Bring needle nose pliers. Long nose pliers keep your fingers out of the danger zone as walleye are notorious for quite large and very sharp teeth. Have a pair of bolt cutters on board in case a fish swallows a hook and the treble can be cut, increasing that fish’s chance for survival. And finally, bring a mesh glove along so if you want to hold that fish up for a photo, there is a reduced chance of it hitting the bottom of your boat in struggle.
Often, there is a great chance that trophy fish you have on the end of your line has never been caught before. It has never felt its own weight so in handling fish out of the water, one must be conscious of full body support of the fish. Hanging a fish vertically by its gill plate does damage to the fish. Imagine having a hand in your lower jaw and being lifted off the ground by that method only. I shudder at how I feel it must be agony. Pick up fish using two hands one hand under its gill plate, (you can position the pectoral fins between your fingers to increase your grip on the fish) and the other firmly gripping the “fish’s wrist”, the narrowest part of the body before the tail begins. That hand is where I like to have my glove. It gives you increased security against dropping that trophy. And never keep them out of the water longer than you can hold your own breath. Fish need to be in water to breathe.
Call me crazy, but why take the fish out of the net in the first place? (if you’re not going to get a quick photograph) Most nets are large enough (or you should have a net large enough) that you can do hook removal right at the side of the boat. With the proper equipment on board, you may not even have to touch the fish. There is a growing movement amongst anglers, it’s called the “Keep em Wet” campaign. It’s core states that photography, handling and release should all be done while the fish is still in the water. It may minimize fish stress, keeps them breathing oxygen and may reduce less of the protective slime fish rely on to keep them bacteria and infection free.
Big fish are true trophies and the proper handling of such fish is imperative to their successful release back to the deep. It takes effort from anglers to be aware of their responsibility to look after these treasures. Keeping them safe helps to ensure our trophy fishery remains world class. When fish are handled properly, the fishery thrives, Just think how big that fish is going to be next time you tangle with the world class walleye at Wilderness North.
]]>In choosing equipment with which to fish, there are factors that come into play that should be considered – if, that is, you’re looking for the ultimate fight in the sport. And it’s known that catching fish on light tackle and ultra light tackle brings a new level to the game that tests the angler’s mettle. Even the IGFA (international Game Fish Association) has world record categories directed a those who like to angle fish on the lightest pound test line possible.
Many species are exceptionally susceptible to stress, and if you choose to fish for sport (planning on practicing catch and release) stress can be the straw that breaks the back of the camel. Stress will kill fish so targeting species that can handle stress is key. Understanding the causes of stress in fish is equally important.
Water temperature is the key element in managing stress of fish you plan on catching and releasing on light tackle. Generally a good rule of thumb is the warmer the water, the higher the possibility of stressing a fish past the point of recovery. Many anglers who target musky for example, choose to stop fishing for them when the water hits temperatures approaching the high 70’s. Warmer water (less dissolved oxygen) longer fights, lactic acid build-up and improper angler release tactics will all contribute to increased stress in fish.
Light and ultra light tackle fighting is exceptionally challenging for many. We choose to angle fish in this manner, therefore, we must also choose to be prepared for when the fight comes to an end. If fishing larger fish such as the giant northern pike Wilderness North is famous for, be sure you have the proper tools at hand to safely and quickly release the fish. Pliers, a cradle or aquarium style nets, jaw spreaders, bolt cutters and a mesh landing glove are all vital equipment to unhook and revive big fish. After a long fight, it’s also a good idea to try to minimize the air exposure of fought-out fish. Get a quick photo, and try to keep them wet!
When releasing fish angled on light line, time is on your side. Take as much time as you need to ensure that fish is ready to swim away on its own. A fish released too soon may linger on the surface (eagle food) or sink slowly to the bottom unable to right itself. A good way to ensure your fish is ready to be released, is to loosen your grip in their tail while supporting the underbelly. If the fish is able to maintain its vertical equilibrium, that’s a good sign of recovery. If they drift onto their side, they can’t swim away on their own yet. Many fish will let you know they have recovered with an explosion from your grip – that’s good.. but hang onto that fish until it shows you they are able to swim away on their own.
There is little arguing that fishing light tackle for big fish is a tonne of fun. It creates a challenge for anglers, a goal to strive toward. Imagine releasing a 30 lb pike on 6 lb test line – quite the feat! However, anglers fishing conservation minded waters do so ensuring they fish light tackle responsibly. No matter how you choose to target the giants at Wilderness North, they are there… and they are many, and catching them on ultra light tackle is incredible!
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You pick up your rod and make that first cast. The popper bobs to a stop and the rings dissipate. You don’t move a muscle. The rings disappear and you violently rip the popper toward you. Then it happens, a giant northern pike engulfs your popper and leaves a hole in the water. You set the hook and the battle ensues Here is your result:
At Wilderness North, this scenario plays out everyday – literally! Fishing for pike with topwater poppers is an exciting adrenaline rush you wont soon forget. It’s actually addictive. So what do you do and what do you need to get started?
The proper rod for popper pike is very important! You’ll need a rod that has enough backbone to pull big pike out of the weeds, yet at the same time you need a rod that will allow you to effectively and accurately make long casts. 7 -7.5 foot medium heavy rod with a fast action tip will do the deal.
Drag is important here when choosing a reel for casting. Whether you like baitcasters or spinning reels a solid drag that will smoothly allow fish to make short but violent runs will lessen your chances of loosing old toothy.
Line choice in this situation is quite simple. Either choose braid 30 20 0r 30 lb or 15-17 lb fluorocarbon. The no/low stretch of these choices are a key element to be able to effectively set the hook on big pike.
Leaders for pike are important to prevent having big pike bite through your main line 1) you lose the fish and 2) you lose your popper. Yet you don’t want a leader that is too heavy to impede the action of your popper or bring it under water. Choose nylon coated steel leaders that are 20 lb test … also taking a page from the world of fly fishing, you can invest is a small spool of knot able titanium bite wire.
This is where the fun begins! Poppers can mimic things that pike eat in the natural world such as mice, muskrats, baby ducks, frogs etc or, you can choose poppers that are manufactured to create great disturbance such as a tubular walk the dog style popper. Generally poppers or any top water bait will move more water if they have a concave nose.
Fishing top water is just about as exciting a form of fishing you can get. It’s not for the feint of heart however as massive explosions have the ability to make you jump out of surprise. Give it a try the next time you target pike, you’ll be glad you did!
]]>Depending on the style of fishing you like to do, rod selection for walleye is key. Many times, they are light biters, and even the most experienced anglers questioning “what that a hit?” For casting to walleye, a 6-7 foot medium-light or medium rod with a fast action tip will help you detect the fish. For jigging, consider a shorter rod, say 6 feet medium light to medium and again, a fast or extra fast action tip. If you like to troll for walleye, beef up your rod a bit to a medium to medium heavy and increase the length to 7-10 feet. This helps get the lures away from the boat. Action for a trolling rod should be moderate to help with the fight.
This might be just as important a factor when targeting walleye as your choice of rod. For casting to walleye, you can either choose 100 percent fluorocarbon or braid with a fluorocarbon leader. 10-20 lb braid with an 8-12 lb leader for casting lures. If you choose fluorocarbon, 8-12 lbs will suffice. Braid offers zero stretch and is super sensitive while fluorocarbon will stretch a little, but not nearly as much as monofilament.
When jigging for walleye, line diameter is key. The smaller you can go the better you’ll fare, keeping in mind lighter line generally will result in a longer fight with big fish and you will have increased chances of loosing walleye the lighter you go. Keep spools of 4-10 lb fluorocarbon on hand. If you like the sensitivity of braid, 10 lb with a fluorocarbon leader with tests reflective of the fish’s mood is a great bet. This system also works for live bait fishing for walleye.
Trolling - as with all styles of fishing walleye, sensitivity is key. For trolling walleye, 10-12 lb fluorocarbon is recommended. It has the abrasion resistance to stand up as well as the vanish factor in the water.
What about reels? The most important factor with respect to choosing a reel for walleye fishing is the drag. When fishing light lines, 4-10 lb test range, a solid smooth drag system will be the difference between landing that trophy and snapping it off. You don’t want to be in the situation where your rod is acting as your only flex in fighting a big fish, a solid smooth drag will give you the opportunity to effectively play the fish properly.
Choosing the proper gear to target walleye is of vital importance when heading out on an adventure vacation, it pays to plan ahead and have a little variety if your rod and reel setups with respect to technique. Bring extra spools of different types of line to be able to adjust to the conditions presented for both weather and for what those golden walleye are telling you!
]]>The business end…. Pike are notorious for biting through angler’s fishing line. Often they do it so clean and quick, anglers simply don’t realize they even had a fish on. The only evidence is they have lost their lure or bait. All pike have rows upon rows of razor sharp teeth. The largest “fangs” are in the outside of the jaws with smaller teeth laying in wait to make an appearance all the way back in their mouth. They face backward so once they grab hold of a meal, they’re hard pressed to be able to let it go.
When pike hit they generally grab and turn away, however sometimes they will grab and come toward you. When they feel the hook penetrate they will turn the other way and hit the gas hard. They will even sometimes jump. Whatever their behavior, they will react, like many fish to the opposite of what you want them to do. Pressure left, will move them right etc.
When choosing line for pike, the line you choose depends on the style of fishing you are doing. Just like a golfer with all their clubs, each fishing line or combination of fishing lines in one setup has its purpose. It’s important to note that any line can catch fish, but choosing the optimum line for the technique you are presenting will maximize your chances of catching more and bigger fish.
Monofilament – Mono as it’s referred to does have a place in fishing for pike and it has its plusses and minuses. Mono stretches, sometimes quite a bit, so when fish hit, there is a chance the stretch will create the possibility of increased slack if the fish turns back toward you. Conversely, if you’re a sensitivity junkie, mono offers very little in the subtler nuances of the hit. On the flip side, the stretch of mono also can hide angler error such as the angler putting slack in the line. The retraction of the stretched mono will often keep that line tight to the fish’s mouth. Many anglers like to use mono for trolling or casting crankbaits and swimbaits.
Braided line – Braid is the line you choose for the utmost in sensitivity. There is next to no stretch in braid which many anglers like. It does however take some getting used to as this no stretch had the ability to break rodtips and cut deeply into skin as well as will need a change to your overall rod fighting technique. Resiliency is a giant bonus with using braided line. You can fish the heaviest of cover with good braid and have the confidence the line will hold up in rocky or woody areas. Techniques where braid is beneficial are fishing live bait, throwing lures in heavy cover, topwater techniques and fishing heavy cover.
Fluorocarbon – This line is a great choice for clear clean water as it virtually disappears in the water; the fish simply don’t see it as much as braid and mono. Fluorocarbon is a low stretch line that is quite pliable and is becoming a favorite go-to for anglers. You can use fluorocarbon for casting to pike with spinnerbaits, in-line spinners or any kind of jerkbait.
Note with all lines while fishing for pike, it’s recommended to utilize a leader to prevent the dreaded bite off… There are three kinds of leaders that add to your line-up of lines for pike, 1) wire leader. A wire leader is great for pike as it tends to be the most durable, it’s flexible and will generally not take away from a lure’s action too much. 2) stiff wire leader – these leaders are great for glide baits as the stiffness of the leader prevents the treble hooks from getting tangled in the leader – it simply stays away from the hooks unlike a soft wire leader. And finally 3) a fluorocarbon leader. Fluorocarbon leaders are making an name for themselves with anglers are they are difficult to see in the water, have a medium flex for many applications and techniques and are easy to make yourself. One thing to note about fluorocarbon leaders is they have to be big; 60-80lb for pike. You may find the upper tests require crimps to close instead of traditional knots.
Pike fishing is fun! It can be very explosive and extremely exciting. By choosing the proper line to match to your specific technique for targeting pike, you’ll increase your success and be able to release more fish!
]]>Depending on the style of fishing you like to do, rod selection for walleye is key. Many times, they are light biters, and even the most experienced anglers questioning “what that a hit?” For casting to walleye, a 6-7 foot medium-light or medium rod with a fast action tip will help you detect the fish. For jigging, consider a shorter rod, say 6 feet medium light to medium and again, a fast or extra fast action tip. If you like to troll for walleye, beef up your rod a bit to a medium to medium heavy and increase the length to 7-10 feet. This helps get the lures away from the boat. Action for a trolling rod should be moderate to help with the fight.
This might be just as important a factor when targeting walleye as your choice of rod. For casting to walleye, you can either choose 100 percent fluorocarbon or braid with a fluorocarbon leader. 10-20 lb braid with an 8-12 lb leader for casting lures. If you choose fluorocarbon, 8-12 lbs will suffice. Braid offers zero stretch and is super sensitive while fluorocarbon will stretch a little, but not nearly as much as monofilament.
When jigging for walleye, line diameter is key. The smaller you can go the better you’ll fare, keeping in mind lighter line generally will result in a longer fight with big fish and you will have increased chances of loosing walleye the lighter you go. Keep spools of 4-10 lb fluorocarbon on hand. If you like the sensitivity of braid, 10 lb with a fluorocarbon leader with tests reflective of the fish’s mood is a great bet. This system also works for live bait fishing for walleye.
As with all styles of fishing walleye, sensitivity is key. For trolling walleye, 10-12 lb fluorocarbon is recommended. It has the abrasion resistance to stand up as well as the vanish factor in the water.
The most important factor with respect to choosing a reel for walleye fishing is the drag. When fishing light lines, 4-10 lb test range, a solid smooth drag system will be the difference between landing that trophy and snapping it off. You don’t want to be in the situation where your rod is acting as your only flex in fighting a big fish, a solid smooth drag will give you the opportunity to effectively play the fish properly.
Choosing the proper gear to target walleye is of vital importance when heading out on an adventure vacation, it pays to plan ahead and have a little variety if your rod and reel setups with respect to technique. Bring extra spools of different types of line to be able to adjust to the conditions presented for both weather and for what those golden walleye are telling you!
]]>Brook trout require cold clean well oxygenated water to survive and will eat a variety of creatures. including emerging insects, fish, crustaceans, amphibians and small mammals. Brook trout will readily eat anything they can fit in their mouths. they aren’t picky in any way – quite the opposite actually, and during the pre-spawn (September) they are aggressive toward anything that comes near their spawning territory. However as with all fly fishing, you stack the deck in your favor if you have the opportunity to present flies that mimic what the fish are eating. And having the ability to see a fish taking a dry fly is absolutely perfect when it comes to angling for brook trout. Timing your fishing adventure and having a basic understanding of what bugs are hatching and when they are hatching is vital to brook trout success.
Here is an example of a hatch chart for a central Ontario river (NOTE!!! This is just an example, don’t use this for a Wilderness North adventure)
That is all well and good, but what if you’re off on a fly in adventure to a river that may not be fished all that often? We all cant be entomologists, so if you come equipped with a variety of flies with different size profiles, you will be able to target brook trout effectively.
In Northern Ontario, the brook trout can get quite large. The world record was caught in the Nipigon River in 1915 and currently stands as the world record. That fish, caught by Dr JW Cook of Thunder Bay tipped the scales at 14 and one half lbs.
You have legitimate chances at tangling with a brook trout up to 6 -8 lbs. A 5 or 6 weight fly rod with matching 5 or 6 weight floating line will do the trick. Long leaders with light tippet are key for these wary fish. A good selection of flies to bring might include: elk hair caddis flies, blue winged olive, grasshoppers, mice, royal coachman, adams, pheasant tail and red spinner. Again, having these in a variety of sizes is key to match the size as close as possible to what is coming off.
When you approach a river that has rising fish, it’s best to sit back and watch for a bit. You might be able to identify a single fish and decipher it’s feeding patterns. Often trout will feed in a “lane” rising to almost the exact spot each time to take a fly, or they might feed in a pattern, rising in one location, moving upstream to another and then returning to the first feeding spot. It’s important to understand what the fish are doing, then presenting the fly based on the pattern you’ve observed.
At Wilderness North, we practice 100 percent catch and release and fish with single barbless flies only. This is part of our commitment to protecting this world class brook trout fishery. There is nothing quite like seeing a big brook trout rising and eating a artificial offering perfectly presented. The fights are legendary and the personal interaction with wild native brook trout can give any angler a serious case of goose bumps. Releasing these jewels of the north is the cherry on top of the sundae.
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